Rabbits make intelligent, friendly and quiet house pets. The average life span for a bunny is 7 to 10 years with records of up to 15 years of age being reported. The following information is designed to help you take the best care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life with him or her.

DIET

RABBIT PELLETS - In our opinion, pellets are the least important part of a rabbits diet. A good quality rabbit pellet may be offered daily but in limited quantities. The UNCONTROLLED feeding of a pelleted diet can lead to obesity. heart and liver disease, chronic diarrhea, and kidney disease which results from the high concentration of carbohydrates, low fiber and high calcium levels in the pellets. Make sure that you buy pellets high in fiber (18% or more), and that you buy small quantities. 1(keep the pellets refrigerated or cool and dry to prevent spoilage. Old, rancid pellets can cause a rabbit to stop eating.

The following chart shows DAILY AMOUNTS to be fed to your bunny. DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if the pellets are all eaten the next day. ***OVERFEEDING OF PELLETS IS THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE OF HEALTH PROBLEMS THAT WE SEE. Keep your rabbit healthy by not overdoing it!

*Rabbits up to 8 months of age can have access to pellets free choice, because they are still growing rapidly. However, after 8 months of ace they should receive the following maintenance diet.

2-4 Th of body weight - 1/8 cup daily
5-7 lb of body weight - 1/4 cup d,aily
8-10 lb of body weight - 1/2 cup daily
11-151b: of body weight - 3/4 cup daily

*P1ease note that these food amounts are for the maintenance of the non breeding, mature house rabbit. If you intend to breed your pet, then we suggest increasing the daily pellet amounts by 1/4 cup during the breeding season. For does that are nursing babies, the pellets should be increased over a 4- 5 day period to free choice until the babies are weaned. After the breeding period is over, resume feeding at the maintenance levels as listed above.

In some situations, your veterinarian may recommend that pellets should be removed totally from the diet. Do not become alarmed because your pet will be able to revive all the nutrients necessary from the hay and fresh foods that you will be instructed to feed. (This is commonly the treatment suggested by our hospital for very overweight bunnies who need to lose weight safely.)

HAY - TIMOTHY OR OTHER GRASS HAY SHOULD BE OFFERED DAILY IN UNLIMITED AMOUNTS. It is important that hay be available all times for your pet. Rabbits tend to eat small amounts of food frequently throughout the day and withholding hay for long periods of time can lead to intestinal upsets.

We prefer the loose, long strands of hay, as opposed to the pressed cubes or chopped hay. The fiber in the hay is extremely important in promoting normal digestion. Hay also contains proteins and other nutrients essential to the good nealth of your pet. We no longer recommend the use of alfalfa hay, particularly if it is being used alone with pellets (which are already high in alfalfa), because it may provide too much calcium and extra carbohydrates which may lead to serious health problems arid digestive upsets. If the rabbit is on a no pellet diet, then alfalfa hay may be used only if the pet will not eat the grass hay, but weight loss may be more difficult to achieve.

You may check with your local pet stores for timothy hay or other types of grass hay. Feed stores and horse barns will usually have bales of hay which is actually more economical if you have 3 or more medium to large sized bunnies.) Hay should be stored in a cool, dry place with good air circulation (store in open plastic bag or box). Discard wet or damp hay, or any hay that does not have a “fresh” smell. The best way to offer the hay is to use a hay rack on the outside of the cage. Your pet can pull the hay into the cage through the bars as he or she needs it. This keeps the hay clean and eliminates much of the waste.

At certain times of the year and in certain locations, it may be difficult to obtain grass hay. At these times it. is okay to use hays mixed with alfalfa, or use strictly alfalfa hay for a short period of time. The most important thing is to ALWAYS HAVE HAY AVAILABLE TO THE PET. Remember, we are restricting the pellets arid the hay is a major source of
fiber and nutrients. *HAY IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE RABBITS DIET!

*FRESH FOODS - These Foods should be given daily. Rabbits in the wild eat a large variety of tough, fibrous leaves, bark and other difficult to digest plants. If your pet is not used to getting any fresh foods, then start. out gradually with the green leafy veggies and add a new food item from the list every 5-7 days. If the addition of any item leads to diarrhea or unformed stools in 24 to 43 hours, then remove it from the diet.

Young bunnies should also be introduced to new foods gradually. However, once your pet is eating these foods, try to give at least 3 types daily. We find the addition of these fresh fibrous foods helps (along with the hay) in the prevention of hairballs and other digestive upsets, plus your bunny will love you for it!

The following are all foods that you can try with your pet. We recommend a minimum amount of 1 cup per 4 pounds body weight daily of these items:
Carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (these are excellent, but no pesticides, please), kale, collard areens, escarole, romaine lettuce. (don't give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli (dont forget the leaves), carrot, green peppers, pea pods (the flat edible kind), brussel sprouts, basil, peppermint leaves, raspberry leaves, radicchio and bok choy. Try to feed at least 3 different types of greens daily. Feeding just one type of green food only (especially broccoli, cabbage, brussel sprouts and spinach) may lead to nutrient imbalances.

TREAT FOODS - In a small amount, you can give one of these “treat foods daily (give about 1 level tablespoon per 5lb of body weight) - strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, peach, pear or dried whole grain bread.

*WE DO NOT RECOMMEND GIVING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING DIETARY UPSET AND OBESITY: Salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, and other grains or seeds (including oatmeal and corn).

WATER - This should always be available, and changed daily. A dirty water container can breed bacteria that can cause disease. The container can be either a water bottle or heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, because your pet may not drink if the taste or color is altered.

VITAMINS - It is not necessary to provide vitamin supplements if the rabbit is getting a healthy diet. Rabbits manufacture most of their own vitamins and minerals though their cecotropes or “night dropping” (see below). In fact, the indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to over dosage and serious disease.

SALT OR MINERAL BLOCK - Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet. You may want to have one available for those animals kept outdoors in warm climates and for breeding animals.

NIGHT DROPPINGS - It may seem strange to list this as a part of the diet, but these “special droppings” are an essential part of your pet’s nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually in the evening, you may observe your pet licking the anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process.

These cecotropes, as they are called, are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry, round waste droppings. Your pet knows when these droppings are being produced and will take care of eating them himself. Cecotropes come from the cecum, which is the part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place, and they are rich in vitamins and nutrients which are needed by your pet to maintain good health. After eating these “vitamin pellets” he will redigest the material and extract all the necessary nutrients. This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it.is normal and important for your pet.

Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them. They will be soft, brighter green, come in clumps and are misshapen, but formed and have an odor. This is not considered diarrhea, and if it only occurs occasionally, it is not considered a disease problem.

ENVIRONMENT

CAGE - A metal cage may be used with a wire flooring of 14 gauge wire (1” x 1/2” square openings). A solid floored area is necessary, to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting. The size of the cage should be at least 24” x 24 ‘ x 18” high for the small and medium sized breeds and 36” x 36” x 24” high for the large breeds.

You can use a towel (unless you have a pet that likes to eat towels), or piece of carpeting or wood for the solid area. We have found that the “synthetic fleece” cloth that. is sold in fabric stores (in a variety of colors) works very nicely, as it is washable and If the pet chews on, it, there are no long strands of fabric that can get caught in the digestive tract. Newspaper can be used under the wire. Do not use aquariums or solid walled cages because the lack of sufficient air circulation has been directly correlated with an increase in respiratory disease.

If you are going to have your bunny roaming the house either all or most of the time, make sure that you eliminate areas that your pet can get wedged in or escape from. Also watch out for electrical cords, which they like to chew on, carpeting, which they like to dig up and chew, and any toxic materials such as rodent poisons that your pet could get into. Get on your hands and knees and “bunny proof”’ your home.

LITTER BOX - Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. Initially you need, to keep your pet in a small area, either in a cage or a blocked off section of the room and place a letter box in the corner (try to pIck the corner your pet has already used). Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily. It is helpful to put some of the droppings in the box. You can reward your pet with one of the treat foods listed previously whenever he or she has used the box successfully. Do not punish your pet while in the litter box. Do not worry if your pet sits for extended periods i,n the litter box. Sitting in the box can be allowed as long as he is not soiling himself.

Pelleted paper or other organic products make the best bedding. These products are non toxic and digestible if eaten, easier to clean up than shavings or clay litter, control odor better and are compostable. Some examples are Cellu-Dri and Yesterday’s News (which are paper products), Mountain Cat Kitty Litter, Harvest Litter (pelleted wheat grass products), and Gentle Touch (pelleted aspen bedding).

TEMPERATURE - Rabbits should be kept in the COOLEST and least humid area of the house. Studies have shown that bunnies kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation, have a dramatic increase in the incidence of respiratory disease over those animals kept in cool, dry environments with good air circulation. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. If your rabbit must be kept in a basement, invest in a dehumidifier and a fan to keep out dampness and improve air circulation.

The optimum temperature range for a bunny is 60-70 degrees
F. When the temperature gets into the mid 70’s one may see an increase in drooling, and nasal discharge. If temperatures reach the upper 80’s and beyond, and especially if the humidity is high the potential for a fatal heat stroke is very real. On very hot days, when air conditioning is not available, it is helpful to leave a plastic milk jug filled with frozen water in the cage, for a portable “air conditioner”.

Please keep fresh, cool water available, as this will also help to keep the body temperature down. If you pet should actually experience a heat stress reaction, try holding an ice cube on the ear or gently wetting your pet down with cool (not cold) water. If the heat stroke is severe, veterinary attention will be necessary.

If your bunny is being kept outdoors in either warm or cold weather, make sure that part of the cage is sheltered from the’ wind and the sun. For the winter it is advisable to use straw bedding in the sheltered area for insulation and make sure that the water bowl is changed daily, as your pet can dehydrate rapidly if the water is frozen for days.

HANDLING

There are a number of ways to pick up your pet depending on how calm he is and his size. The main thing to remember is to always support the hind quarters to prevent serious spinal injuries. Rabbit’s backbones are fragile and can easily snap when the hind legs are allowed to dangle and the animal then gives one strong kick. Unfortunately these injuries are usually permanent and frequently result in the euthanasia of the pet, so the best policy is prevention. Never pick up a bunny by it’s sensitive ears, it’s very painful and totally unnecessary! It is better to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders and then place your other hand under the back legs to lift your bunny from the floor. Work near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so that if they jump out of your arms they don’t have far to go.

It may also be useful to put your bunny on its back when trying to trim nails and examine the underside of your pet. Most rabbits will learn to relax in this position and can withstand quite a bit of handling. Work on the floor and put the rabbit on its back with its head just over the edge of your knees so that it hangs down a little. Restrain the body firmly between your ..ti~lghs. Talk softly and stroke its chest and abdomen gentl~t. It may be necessary to have a second person hold one set of legs when first learning to trim nails in this position. However, many pets become so relaxed that one person can do all the grooming by themselves.

MEDICAL PROBLEMS

OVERGROWN TEETH - Overgrown incisors (the front teeth) are frequently caused by a congenital defect. Other causes can be injury or trauma to the teeth, infection in the roots of the incisors, or malalfgnment or infection in the molars (the back teeth).

Rabbits’ teeth grow constantly throughout their life. If the incisors or molars are not lined up properly then they do not get worn down which results in overgrowth. Overgrown teeth can cause mouth infections, ulcerations of the lips or tongue and inability to pick up and eat food. The most common treatment for these overgrowths is to have the teeth cut periodically (every 3-8 weeks).

If the molars are involved, or if the animal is very skittish, a general anesthetic may be required for the teeth trimming procedure. A permanent cure for overgrown incisors is the complete removal of the incisors under a general anesthetic. Rabbits are able to eat normally afterwards and teeth trimming will obviously no longer be necessary. If your pet has teeth problems, please discuss the options with your veterinarian.

LOSS OF APPETITE - There are a variety of reasons why a bunny will lose his appetite. The most common reason in our experience is a diet low in fiber and high in calories. This combination can lead to obesity, fatty liver disease, sluggish movement of the intestinal tract which slows the emptying of the stomach and cecum, leading to a constantly “full” feeling.

We consider “hairballs” to be a symptom of other problems (usually a poor diet) and not a primary disease in itself. Angora breeds which have very long hair, may be an exception to this rule, because the length of their hair may make it difficult to pass.

Another common condition that can cause appetite loss is dental disease. Overgrown molars that have sharp edges which lacerate the tongue and abscesses of any of the tooth roots can cause a pet to cease eating due to pain.

Less common, but very serious conditions that can also lead to appetite loss include uterine infections, abscesses, respiratory infections, gastrointestinal infections, blockage of the intestinal tract with foreign material (such as carpet fibers), middle or inner ear infections, eating toxic materials and bladder and kidney infections.

Loss of appetite is something that should be investigated by your veterinarian within 48 hours even if the pet is acting normally. Rabbits may develop a deteriorating condition of the liver when they go without food for long periods of time. If the liver is damaged excessively, there may be no way to reverse the process. Early diagnosis and treatment of appetite loss is the best way to save your pet’s life.

DIARRHEA - True diarrhea is not common in the rabbit. This is a condition where all stool being passed is in a liquid form. This is usually a very serious condition and should be seen by your veterinarian immediately. Some serious gastrointestinal infections that result in diarrhea can be fatal in less than 24 hours.

What most people refer to as diarrhea, is an intermittent passing of soft liquid or pudding-like stools. The rabbit will also pass normal formed stools. The soft stools may be seen more frequently at certain times of the day (many times overnight) and may have a strong odor and accumulate on the rabbit’s fur. The liquid stools are actually the cecal pellets (see section on Night Droppings) that are unformed. There are a variety of reasons for this condition, but by far- the most common reason is a lack of sufficient fiber in the diet and obesity. Eliminating the pellets from the diet and feeding good quality grass hay only for several weeks may clear up the problem. Consult your veterinarian if your pet has this condition before making changes in the diet.